Vietnam on 2 Wheels
2012 Motorbike Ride
Vietnam Facts:
329,569 sq km (slighty larger than New Zealand)
As of July 2011 90,549,390 people
20,000,000 (yes million) motorbikes
Road toll 12,300 per year
85% of these deaths involved motorcycles
Why the hell would you even consider riding a motorbike in this country?
Well, as the saying goes “Welcome to Vietnam”!
This ride was something else. 12 good Kiwi blokes (unfortunately 1 was born in Australia), all with above average riding ability, were challenged mentally and physically, often on a day by day basis, with the ride.
The
bikes are mid 1970 Russian 650cc Urals, one down and three up. Not a lot of
suspension, plenty of noise, reliability questionable! Fortunately a van full of parts and a mechanic
are following.
Our trip starts in Hanoi and finishes just over 2200 kilometres later in Ho Chi Min City. We endeavour to follow the Ho Chin Min Trail. Our tour guide is Digby from “Explore Indochina” a remarkable bloke who has an absolute passion for the history of this country. A likeable rogue, he is also an Aussie who speaks fluent Vietnamese.
His pre-ride ramble is intense, pointing out the dangers of riding in this country. Firstly use your F------ horn at all times passing, at intersections, people crossing roads, blind corners -it is your most important safety device on the bike.
Secondly don’t avoid dogs or small animals if they are in your way, just run them over. If you hit someone and they get up, pay them straight away then get the hell out of it. In no time you will have a hundred people standing around and they’ll all want to be paid.
Lastly, buses trucks and cars will pass anywhere, on blind corners or in your lane so stay well right. If you are lucky, the rice paddies have quite a soft landing area if you need to bail. Shit hot this really sounds like fun, Not!
The
first six days riding were all in the light rain or mist. The roads were greasy
and very busy. We had two off in the first two days, one taking evasive action
from a bus sliding towards him, the other not listening to the advice given and
trying to avoid a dog. Both were at relatively
low speeds so only a little bark was lost but a lot of pride! Fortunately those
were the only offs. However, we all recorded near misses on a daily bases - just
part of riding in Vietnam.
To
Digby’s credit, he took us on some remarkable roads. Some of them private so only a handful of
vehicles would be seen, others were muddy wet and bloody rough. 
The roading in the North is of a lesser
standard than in the South, however a lot of concrete is used, hence the
unevenness. On one stretch of road later in the tour we had 67 kilometres of
winding road, similar to the ParaPara road from Wanganui to Ratahi. Absolutely brilliant. The old foot pegs got a good workout on that
stretch!
As
we travelled South, the scenery was clearer due largely to the better weather. Most
mornings we were on the bikes by 7.30am and by 9.30, it was 32 degrees.
We
followed the coastline most of the way. Clearly in the boom times plenty of
money was spent on luxury beach resort apartments. The ones that are finished
are simply second to none in their presentation and splendor. However, where
the money has run out, it is quite the opposite. Sadly such projects litter the
coastline, some will probably never see another brick laid.
Accommodation
in general was fantastic. Because of the cheapness and the fact we were pretty
stuffed after each day’s ride, we stayed in the first class Hotels. You can do
it far cheaper, but at your own peril. A German couple we came across had
stayed at a home stay. He had a few itches but she had beautifully toned legs
covered in bed bug bites. Not a good look poor things!
Food was fantastic but watch the water. Beer (Tiger by choice) ranged from .80 to 1.50 per bottle. Reasonably large volumes were consumed at this price! Petrol one dollar per gallon, all US Dollars .
For a country that has been at war more than most, the people are very accepting. Perhaps that’s why it has one of the fastest growing economies. Rural Vietnam still looks very backward but everything in the field is neat and tidy and growing well. I certainly hope there are rich rewards for these people as they are certainly hard workers who toil away in all conditions. A notable fact is the woman seem to do more than their share of the work. Men seem to be gathered around outside tables smoking and discussing tomorrow’s topics. Would this system work over here ? I don`t think so!!
Summary;
Vietnam is a great place to visit
It has a great historical past
Great food, great accommodation
Great scenery, average roads
Bussing is by far the safest way to travel
If you want an adrenalin rush, do it on motorbikes and contact
Digby [email protected]
Cheers and stay upright.
Macca
Steve McManaway
